Centella asiatica is a plant used in skincare as extracts or compounds such as asiaticoside and madecassoside. [1] Small studies found improved forearm hydration and wrinkle appearance with particular formulas. [2, 3] Extracts and study conditions differ, so these results do not apply equally to every centella skincare product. The ingredient name alone cannot establish equivalence.
In this article
What is centella asiatica?
Centella asiatica is a medicinal plant that has been used for about 3,000 years, once as a kind of panacea. Its main active compounds are pentacyclic triterpenes, especially asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. A 2014 review of its dermatology research centers on lab and animal experiments on healing small wounds, scars and burns. [1]
On a skincare label, “centella” can mean several different ingredients. An expert panel reviewed nine centella-derived cosmetic ingredients, from whole-plant and leaf extracts to leaf water, root extract and cell cultures grown from the plant. [4] Which compounds a product contains, and how much, varies from product to product, and our sources give no typical concentration.
Centella is usually marketed for calming and barrier support. The skin barrier guide explains what that barrier is and what tends to strain it.
Centella vs cica: are they the same?
Mostly, yes. “Cica” is a label nickname for products built around centella; it is not a separate ingredient. The name tells you little about which centella compounds are inside or in what amounts, so read the ingredient list rather than the front of the pack.
What does centella do in skincare?
In small human studies, centella preparations raised skin hydration, lowered water loss and slightly reduced redness, and creams used around the eyes and lips reduced wrinkles. [2, 5, 3] Laboratory work suggests effects on collagen and healing. But several studies tested multi-ingredient formulas or were funded by manufacturers, so centella’s own effect is often unclear. [6, 7, 8]
Does centella hydrate skin?
The best test of centella on its own is small. In 25 volunteers, creams and gels with 2.5% or 5% centella extract were applied to the forearm twice daily for four weeks. The 5% versions worked best: hydration rose 25% with the cream and 22% with the gel compared with the control area, and water loss fell 18% and 15%, against 10% and 8% with the 2.5% versions and 5% with the extract-free base. [2]
The study did not report randomization or blinding, used only forearm skin and tested an extract the researchers prepared themselves. [2] A review of wrinkle trials also found that skin hydration rose clearly with centella. [3] A one-day study of a fluid with 1% hyaluronic acid, 5% glycerin and centella extract found more hydration after 24 hours, but with three active ingredients, that result cannot be credited to centella. [6]
Does centella calm redness?
A little, in specific settings. In 30 people treated with a resurfacing laser for acne scars, half the face received a gel with 0.05% standardized centella extract and the other half a placebo gel. The centella side had a redness index 0.03 units lower over follow-up (p = 0.046), and blinded dermatologists saw less redness on days 2, 4 and 7. [5]
That difference is small and only just significant, and it applied to healing laser wounds, not everyday skin; hydration and barrier measurements did not differ between sides. [5] On the forearm, 5% extract also showed an anti-inflammatory effect in an experimental irritation model. [2] None of this shows that centella clears persistent redness or treats rosacea. The acne scars guide covers laser and other procedures.
Can centella reduce wrinkles?
This is its strongest evidence, and it is still modest. A systematic review found five small double-blind randomized trials involving 172 Asian women. In two placebo-controlled trials, centella or asiaticoside gels and creams used around the eyes for 12 weeks improved wrinkles, and an asiaticoside lipstick used for 8 weeks reduced lip wrinkles. [3]
In an indirect comparison, centella looked more effective than a plant extract used as a comparator but probably less effective than tretinoin, a prescription retinoid; one study reported 10 side effects with centella and 35 with tretinoin. The preparations were not standardized, which the authors say limits general use. [3] Centella is not a substitute for a retinoid; the retinol guide covers that evidence.
What about collagen and wound healing?
The collagen claim comes from cells in a dish. In fibroblasts from a single donor, asiaticoside and madecassoside raised type I collagen output by 25–30%, and only madecassoside raised type III. [9] That does not show that a cream builds collagen in your skin.
For wounds, a systematic review found only four clinical studies, too few for a meta-analysis. Two of them gave centella by mouth, and the patients had medical wounds, such as diabetic wounds, second-degree burns and wounds after laser treatment. [10] Wound and scar care belongs with your doctor, not with a cosmetic serum.
Is centella good for acne?
We found no controlled clinical study testing centella on acne; only laboratory work exists, and it is not among our sources. So there is no evidence that it clears breakouts. If acne is your main concern, the acne guide explains options with stronger support.
What skin type is centella for?
No study has compared centella across skin types, so nobody can say which type it suits best. The people studied were healthy volunteers (on forearms), women with sensitive skin in an uncontrolled study, and people healing after laser treatment. For oily or acne-prone skin, we found no clinical data at all. [2, 7, 5]
The sensitive-skin evidence comes from a single study. In 88 Chinese women with sensitive skin, a face cream with centella leaf extract, ceramide NP and panthenol was used for four weeks. Sensitivity scores fell by 66% at week 2 and 76% at week 4; irritation, tightness, itching and redness decreased, hydration rose at every visit and water loss fell in weeks 1 and 2. Side effects were mild and passed on their own. [7]
But there was no control group, the cream had three active ingredients and a skincare company funded the work. [7] The ceramides guide and panthenol guide cover the other two ingredients. In practice, centella can suit any skin that tolerates the product it comes in; for oily or dry skin, the texture of that product matters more than centella itself.
How do you use centella in your routine?
In practice, centella comes in serums, creams and gels, so use it as the product directs, morning, evening or both. The forearm study applied it twice daily. [2] Start with one new product, try it on a small area first, and give it a few weeks before judging whether it adds anything to your routine.
A simple way to fit it in:
- Cleanse gently and pat skin dry.
- Apply a centella serum or gel before heavier products, or use a centella cream as your moisturizer.
- Skip doubling up if your moisturizer already contains centella; more layers are not more evidence.
- Finish with sunscreen in the morning.
Can you use centella with retinol?
Possibly, but do not expect it to switch off irritation. In a 5-day patch test in 21 healthy young adults, researchers added different soothing ingredients to a 0.1% retinol serum. With 0.5% centella, the irritation score was 0.68 ± 0.25 versus 0.77 ± 0.24 for retinol alone, a trend but not a significant difference. A 0.2% titrated centella extract lowered it to 0.62 ± 0.30, which was significant. [8]
For comparison, 5% ceramide (0.42 ± 0.31) and 2% panthenol (0.55 ± 0.35) also made significant differences. The test was run and funded by a cosmetics company, under occlusive patches for five days rather than in normal use. [8] In practice, starting a retinoid slowly matters more than any soothing additive.
Can you use centella and niacinamide together?
We found no study that tested this pairing. Many products combine them, and there is no known reason to keep them apart, but that is not the same as a tested benefit. If you layer them, add one at a time so you can tell which one your skin reacts to. The niacinamide guide covers its own evidence.
What should you expect?
Expect modest, gradual changes. The studies measured hydration 24 hours after a multi-ingredient fluid, hydration and sensitivity changes over four weeks, and wrinkle changes after 8 to 12 weeks. These are study schedules, not a promise for your face. [6, 2, 7, 3]
| Period | What studies measured | What you can watch |
|---|---|---|
| First day | Hydration 24 hours after a multi-ingredient fluid | Comfort, stinging, texture |
| Four weeks | Forearm hydration and water loss; sensitivity scores with a three-ingredient cream | Tightness and redness after cleansing |
| 8 to 12 weeks | Wrinkles around the eyes and lips | Fine lines, photographed in the same light |
If redness or stinging increases, stop. That is not a sign of the product settling in.
Is centella safe?
Centella is generally considered safe in cosmetics. An expert panel concluded that nine centella-derived ingredients are safe as used, provided they are formulated to be non-sensitizing. That condition shows allergy was taken into account, and the review is a safety assessment, not a legal regulation or proof that centella works. [4]
In the forearm study, a 48-hour closed patch test showed no irritation or allergic reactions. [2]
Can you be allergic to centella?
Yes, although it seems uncommon. In a guinea pig study, centella extract and three of its triterpenes were very weak sensitizers, and allergic reactions have been reported in people, but we found no data on how often they happen. [11] So “rare” is fair, while “never” is not. In practice, test a new product on a small area for a few days.
Pregnancy and breastfeeding
We found no source on the safety of centella applied to the skin during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Ask your doctor or midwife before starting a new product. Stretch mark creams and oral centella products are separate topics outside this guide.
Frequently asked questions
Does centella help with sunburn?
No study in our sources tested centella on sunburn. The redness findings come from healing laser wounds and an experimental forearm model, which are not the same as a burn. [5, 2] For sunburn, cool the skin and stay out of the sun; see a doctor for blistering, severe pain or fever. Centella is not a sunscreen either.
Can you use centella with hyaluronic acid?
Yes, and some products already combine them. A fluid with 1% hyaluronic acid, 5% glycerin and centella extract increased hydration and reduced water loss on the forearms of 20 women, 24 hours after one application. [6] The study was small and short, and it cannot show which ingredient did the work. The hyaluronic acid guide covers that humectant in detail.
Is centella Korean?
No. Centella asiatica is a plant that has been used medicinally for about 3,000 years, [1] long before modern skincare. It is a familiar ingredient in Korean skincare, which is why many people link the two, but the plant is not tied to one country, and where a product is made says nothing about how well it works.
Is a centella serum better than a cream?
No study compared them on the face. On the forearm, a 5% extract worked in both a cream and a gel, with slightly larger hydration gains for the cream. [2] In practice, pick the texture your skin likes: a light serum or gel for oily skin, a cream for dry skin. The moisturizer guide explains how texture and formula differ.
References
- Bylka W, Znajdek-Awiżeń P, Studzińska-Sroka E, Dańczak-Pazdrowska A, Brzezińska M. Centella asiatica in dermatology: an overview. Phytother Res. 2014;28(8):1117-1124. PubMed · DOI
- Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Pytkowska K. Moisturizing and Antiinflammatory Properties of Cosmetic Formulations Containing Centella asiatica Extract. Indian J Pharm Sci. 2016;78(1):27-33. PubMed · DOI
- Kongkaew C, Meesomperm P, Scholfield CN, Chaiwiang N, Waranuch N. Efficacy and Safety of Centella Asiatica (L.) Urb. on Wrinkles: A Systematic Review of Published Data and Network Meta-Analysis. J Cosmet Sci. 2020;71(6):439-454. PubMed
- Johnson W, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, et al. Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol. 2023;42(1_suppl):5S-22S. PubMed · DOI
- Damkerngsuntorn W, Rerknimitr P, Panchaprateep R, et al. The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial. J Altern Complement Med. 2020;26(6):529-536. PubMed · DOI
- Milani M, Sparavigna A. The 24-hour skin hydration and barrier function effects of a hyaluronic 1%, glycerin 5%, and Centella asiatica stem cells extract moisturizing fluid: an intra-subject, randomized, assessor-blinded study. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2017;10:311-315. PubMed · DOI
- Su Z, Zheng Y, Yi J, Lai W, Ye C. The Effectiveness and Safety of a Skin Care Product With Centella asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol in Subjects With Sensitive Skin: A Prospective, Observational Study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(7):e70324. PubMed · DOI
- Ying Y, Fang Y, Chenlan X, et al. Evaluating the Efficacy of Soothing Agents in Mitigating 0.1% Retinol-Induced Skin Irritation: A Patch Test. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025;24(10):e70488. PubMed · DOI
- Bonté F, Dumas M, Chaudagne C, Meybeck A. [Comparative activity of asiaticoside and madecassoside on type I and III collagen synthesis by cultured human fibroblasts]. Ann Pharm Fr. 1995;53(1):38-42. PubMed
- Arribas-López E, Zand N, Ojo O, Snowden MJ, Kochhar T. A Systematic Review of the Effect of Centella asiatica on Wound Healing. Int J Environ Res Public Health. 2022;19(6). PubMed · DOI
- Hausen BM. Centella asiatica (Indian pennywort), an effective therapeutic but a weak sensitizer. Contact Dermatitis. 1993;29(4):175-179. PubMed · DOI
